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09/21/08 - Last Paella of the Summer

We've eaten our last paella of the summer. Paella is a Spanish dish, and we make a Catalan version with morcilla (blood sausage), chorizo and a collection of summer vegetables. This was our excuse to use up the last of the green beans, the last of the romano beans and the lone little zucchini that our friends managed to nurture despite the relatively cool spring and summer past. The picture on the right doesn't really do this dish justice, but take our word for it, this paella was delcious.

Here it is, in all its glory.

Keywords: food


09/09/08 - Padron Peppers

The sign on the door of The Spanish Table announced that the padron peppers were in. Naturally, we had to buy some and try them. They were, after all, edible.

Padron peppers were originally Galician, named after the town of Padron where the cultivar was developed. You can read more about them at Wikipedia. We aren't sure if ours were grown in Spain or more locally, but according to the guy at the store, they were best simply prepared, fried in olive oil and served with salt.



We took our batch and fried them. We actually used a deep frier, but you could just fry them in a pan. In any event, they weren't much to look at fried, but they were delicious. They had a nutty taste, with a light green pepper note in the back. We could definitely see their appeal. We aren't flying off to Galicia for the annual festival, but we will be keeping our eyes open for them next year.

Keywords: food


08/24/08 - Uni Toast

Every year, in late August, we have a seafood festival, and every year the star of our seafood festival is uni toast. Uni, sea urchin eggs, are usually eaten raw as sushi, but they are also delicious cooked. We get our uni from Catalina OP. It comes in little wooden pallettes each holding 80 grams of delicious orange yellow sea urchin eggs. They smell of the sea. Sauteed in butter, they have a deep, rich flavor. They might not look like much in these photographs, but we Kalebergs know that sea urchin roe is not just for sushi.

In the pan

On the plate with one of Jasper White's breadsticks
RECIPE
  • 320 grams (four flats) sea urchin roe
  • 2 tbsp butter
  • 6-8 scallions, cut into little slices
  • 1/2 cup fresh coriander, chopped
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • lemon juice to taste (perhaps half a lemon)
Melt the butter in the pan over medium high heat. Add the sea urchin roe and cook for a minute or two. Add the scallions. Cook for another minute or two until they start to soften. Add the coriander. Turn off the heat. Adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

We recommend serving this dish with either good sourdough toast or Jasper White's breadsticks.

Keywords: food, recipe, kale


07/06/08 - Bones Diablo

Sunny Farms has some excellent beef sold under the name of Roger's. You never know what you'll find in their chiller, but it always pays to look. This time it was beef back ribs, which are basically the bones of a prime rib without the boring middle section. Unable to resist, we time warped back to the 1950s, or maybe even earlier, and cooked up some Bones Diablo, sometimes known as Deviled Bones.

This is a distinctly unfashionable dish. It is based on prime rib bones. It contains butter and more butter. It makes a Carnegie Deli pastrami sandwich look like a dietary treat. A small portion has enough fat to clog nearly 623,451 aortas. We love it. For safety reasons, you probably can't find a recipe for it in any modern cookbook. In fact, searching Google for "bones diablo" recipe gets you nothing.

We have an old James Beard party cookbook, so we're all good to go. We toasted up the bread crumbs, melted the butter, boiled the tarragon vinegar, roasted the bones and cooked down the veal stock. (Yeah, we have veal stock just sitting around). It didn't take all that long to make. We spiced up the sauce with mustard, worcester sauce, tabasco and lemon juice, and we were soon dining on breaded beef bones.

We are now in a fat induced stupor which will probably last for several weeks, or at least until we get hungry again which may be sooner. Bones Diablo is what beef is meant to be: rich, fatty, and flavorsome. The only known antidote is red wine. For reasons of public safety, we won't include the recipe here, but we may be persuaded to answer discreet inquiries.


An arterial nightmare

Keywords: food, recipe, good to go



It tastes better than it looks

06/09/08 - Turkey Tetrazzini

We recently ordered a heritage breed turkey from Heritage Foods, and we just happened to find the most amazing little peas at the Port Angeles Farmers' Market. These peas were so tiny, they make petit pois look like beachballs. So, we decided to make our own version of turkey tetrazzini. This dish is generally loathed, and for good reason, but we figured that with a proper turkey and those amazing peas we could do better.

We wound up adding some shitake mushrooms and heavy cream along with some wonderful garlic scallions, also from the Farmers' Market. These weren't scapes, they were full grown scallions, and they tasted a lot like green onions with an extra garlic note. We put it all together with the turkey, then we cooked the peas by putting them in the colander we used to strain the pasta. The hot pasta water steamed them perfectly.

We'll admit that the picture doesn't really do this dish justice, but take our word for it. This is the right way to make turkey tetrazzini.

Keywords: food, farmers' market


04/06/08 - Smoked Steelhead

Tuna Dan has been coming to the Port Angeles Farmers' Market every Saturday for a while now. We even noticed that another fish guy has joined him selling halibut. Tuna Dan sells halibut, and he sells steelhead. We love smoked steelhead, so we at Kaleberg Labs have been experimenting with some of Tuna Dan's best.

We started with a half a fish, filleted. That weighed about five or six pounds before we removed the skin. We marinated it overnight in a pyrex dish with one cup of light brown sugar, a tablespoon of peppercorns, two tablespoons of kosher salt and three tablespoons of whole coriander seeds. We rubbed the fish with the mixture and let it sit in the refrigerator overnight.

In the morning, the pyrex dish was full of a thick brown liquid, a mixture of the rub and the water drawn from the fish by the salt. We set up a fire in our trusty Weber grill. We use hardwood charcoal from Hasty Bake. It has a cleaner flavor than briquets. We also throw in a chunk of apple wood from an old stump to give it a little fruit wood flavor.

When the fire is hot with perhaps half the coals turning white, we toss in the apple wood and set up for smoking. That means putting the fish on the grill, but not over the hot coals, and closing the bucket with the vents wide open. In a few minutes, the steelhead is smoking with a white cloud pouring out of the little vent on the grill lid.

We have learned, from a sadly overcooked batch of fish, that we need to keep an eye on the grill. If the fire is too hot, we close the vent a bit more. If the fire has gotten too cool, we have to open the grill for a bit, and sometimes add a bit more charcoal. It isn't like cooking on a stove or in an oven.

Sometimes, the fish is ready in as little as half an hour. That is, if it is thinly cut. Usually, it takes about 45 minutes, or even an hour. Done, of course, is a matter of taste. Once the fish is cooked through, you can smoke it down to leather. We like it a bit more tender, and we find that the flavor ripens after the fish is removed from the grill and let sit.

That's the Kaleberg Labs recipe, and that's some of the fish on the right. We used a real fast shutter to take that snap. You know how long food lasts here Chez Kaleberg.


Good enough to eat

Keywords: food, recipe, farmers' market, kale


02/18/08 - Home Made Penne For Macaroni and Cheese

Macaroni and cheese is almost the canonical comfort food. Unfortunately, too many people swear by some packaged version with that wretched cheese style food product and synthetic PVC macaroni. We like macaroni and cheese as much as anyone, but our Domaine Cliche version is something else again.

For starters, we make our own macaroni, or rather, penne, using our hand cranked tube pasta extrusion machine. We stuff the pasta dough in the top, turn the crank and every inch or two cut off four nicely formed penne. The pasta dough is basically flour, eggs, salt and water, and we tend to make the dough a touch damp so it is a bit softer.


Penne in waiting

Old reliable, our tube pasta extruder
The next step is making a bechamel sauce. That's just a half a stick of butter, a few tablespoons of flour and a cup of milk or cream depending on how rich you want it. We like it rich, so we use Dungeness Valley Creamery cream to thicken our milk. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, whisk in the milk. We boil the penne, drain them, then dump them in the bechamel.

So, where is the cheese? We put the cheese on the top. Our favorite is a good aged gruyere, but some folks use Swiss cheese instead. We spread a cup or so of grated gruyere on top and pop the whole dish into the broiler. (It helps if you make the bechamel in a sauce pan that can go in the oven). When the cheese is molten, the dish is ready. Comfort is at hand.

Keywords: food



Like an alien sculpture they lurk and bubble

02/07/08 - Marrow Bones

We recently gave in to temptation and enjoyed a round of marrow bones. They were marked "dog bones" at Sunny Farms. Not being big fans of dog meat, we checked with the butcher. Indeed they were cow meat bones being sold to dog owners to feed to their dogs, but there was no reason to let the dogs have all the fun.

Marrow bones are more or less inedible, unless perhaps you are a dog with very strong jaws. The marrow inside, however, is delicious. The taste is somewhere between beef and butter, or perhaps between butter and beef, or perhaps beefy butter. In any event, it is very rich. This is not diet food.

Marrow bones are easy to make. Just put them in a pyrex pan with some white wine, enough to fill the pan to a quarter inch or so. Bake them at 450F for about 45 minutes. The marrow will be oozing and bubbling. You can check it with a meat thermometer if you like, but we'll go with oozing and bubbling. When in doubt, let it cook a bit longer. You don't want to eat raw marrow.

While the marrow roasts, toast up some good bread in the oven. We had some pain levain which was great. Chop up some garlic and rub it on the toast. Sprinkle lightly with a little fleur de sel, or other good coarse salt. (Yes, this garlic toast is pretty good on its own, but it's even better with marrow). When the marrow is ready, poke it out with a fork, a spoon, a chopstick, a crochet hook, or whatever you have handy. Professionals may use a marrow spoon, but we Kalebergs are strictly amateurs. Cover the toast with a nice layer of molten marrow and take a bite. Smile.

Keywords: food, kale



In the refrigerator - CREAM!

01/24/08 - Cream at Dungeness Valley Creamery

We had a big surprise today at the Dungeness Valley Creamery. They had, of all things, cream. The Browns had been talking about selling cream to the general public, but this is most likely a one time thing. Mount Townsend Creamery is redoing their cheesemaking setup, so they aren't buying any cream. That means, cream at the creamery, but it's an awful tradeoff. It may be a while before they start producing their wonderful cheeses again.

Keywords: food, mount townsend creamery



01/01/08 - Updated Cassoulet Recipe

We've updated our cassoulet recipe, including pictures from the 2005 build. Every two years we make a magnificent cassoulet, and each time we learn a few new tricks. It turns out that our recipe, first posted in the late 1990s has gotten a bit out of date. For the latest results click here.

Keywords: food, recipe


12/29/07 - Black Mitcham Mints

We admit that the item in this picture does not look like much. It is a chocolate covered Black Mitcham mint patty. Black Mitcham is a cultivar of mint that had fallen out of cultivation some years back, but has recently been revived. Naturally, we had to try some, and we were quite impressed. Black Mitcham is a very strong mint, with a hearty green note. It's nothing like spearmint, which we don't really like. Rather, it is extremely refreshing and hearty. That brown disk may not look like much, but it may be the best peppermint patty anywhere.

If you want to try some, you can get them from Chelsea Market Baskets.

If you'd like a window into the exciting world of Black Mitcham research, including the new Cascade Mitcham mutant, check out our Google search.


Keywords: food



11/29/07 - Lacinato Kale Salad

It may not look like much, but this is a wonderful salad made with our own local lacinato kale, which is sometimes called dinosaur kale because of its wrinkled leaves.

The recipe is simple. Take a bunch of lacinato kale, clean it, remove the stalks, roll it up and cut it into thin strips, perhaps a 1/4 or 1/3 of an inch across. Toss it with a couple of cloves worth of minced garlic, a teaspoon of dried red pepper flakes, a tablespoon of olive oil and lots of lemon. Some lemons are juicier than others, so sometimes a half a lemon will do it, but sometimes we'll need as whole lemon's worth.

It's a light, refreshing salad, and real taste of the North Olympic Peninsula.

Keywords: food, recipe, kale



Grilled Smoked Salmon

10/30/07 - Tuna Dan Is Now Selling Salmon

Tuna Dan, who had been selling tuna at the Port Angeles Farmers' Market, is now selling salmon. We bought a whole fish from his chest, and then stuffed it with herbs, smoked paprika, scallions, coriander and thin slices of lemon. We wrapped it in aluminum foil and hot smoked it on our Weber kettle grill for a bit under an hour. We started with a hot fire, but put the lid on with the little dial wide open. It was delicious. Thanks, Tuna Dan.

Keywords: farmers' market, food, salmon



10/30/07 - Fromage Blanc from Mount Townsend Creamery

We should mention that Mount Townsend Creamery is selling an excellent fromage blanc. That's a light, fresh country cheese, made with the excellent milk from Dungeness Valley Creamery. Read our review, and learn more about the cheese makers and the dairy.

Keywords: food, mount townsend creamery


10/03/07 - Moroccan Steamed Lamb Shank

This is one of our favorite dishes from Paula Wolfert's book on Moroccan cooking, Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco. It's easy to make if you have a good steamer or a couscousiere. Get yourself from four to six lamb shanks, a fistful or two of parsley, a couple of onions (peeled), some good saffron, black pepper and perhaps half a stick of butter, maybe a bit less. Squeeze the butter until it softens, sprinkle on the saffron and pepper, then smush and fold a few times to make saffron-pepper butter.

Now, set up the steamer with lots of water. The cooking time is an hour and a half to two hours. You want the shanks tender. Rub the shanks with the saffron-pepper butter. Put the parsley in the steaming basket as a base layer. Then put in the shanks and the peeled onions. Seal the thing up. Check now and then to see if the steamer needs more water, and after 90 minutes start checking to see if the meat is falling off the bone.

When the shanks are ready, mix a few teaspoons of ground cumin with some salt to make the dip. Use gray salt, fleur de sel or kosher salt for better balance and a nice crunch. This is an amazingly good dish. The lamb will be silken and redolent of saffron.


Lamb Shank, Onion, Parsley and the Cumin-Salt Dip

Keywords: food, kale



Another fine pizza, with baby tomatoes

09/05/07 - Alder Wood Bistro Pizza

Here's a shot of one of Alder Wood Bistro's pizzas. This one has lots of little tomatoes on it. Of course, this picture does not do the place justice, but it does give you some idea. For more details, see our Kaleberg review.

Keywords: food, restaurants, alder wood bistro, kale


08/17/07 - Farmers' Market Update

We've added three new vendors to our Port Angeles Farmers' Market page:
  • The Family Farm - Along with the usual vegetables, they have oriental green beans, broad flat romano beans, and New Zealand spinach.
  • Rick's Organic Produce - They have great looking romaine, beets, garlic and more is coming.
  • Elwha Apiary - Wonderful honey and honey based products.

Insert a picture here

Keywords: farms, food, farmers' market


07/31/07 - The Kaleberg Luau

We've been celebrating Hawaii with our own version of a luau. We've been cooking up lau lau, pipikailua beef, and chicken cafreal. Yeah, that last one isn't Hawaiian, but it is one of our Tabla favorites, and at least it is tropical. For more on our luau, check out the Kaleberg Luau page.

Our Shaman Transforming celebrates at our Hawaiian Luau

Keywords: food, hawaii, art, kale


07/18/07 - A Word From Clear Creek

We recently received a note from Clear Creek Distillery in Portland. We have long been fans of their eaux d'vie, including their rather amazing Douglas Fir brandy. They've answered a few of our questions:
The brandy is about 96 proof so around 48% alc by volume and made by macerating young Douglas Fir buds in unaged grape brandy, distilling the buds, then infusing more buds in the Doug Fir brandy to retain color (everything comes out of the still clear). We sell it here at the distillery as well as some Washington State Liquor stores and a handful of other states. The Seattle area stores do a great job keeping our products on their shelves.
If you are interested in finding this product in Washington State, click here.

Keywords: food, washington state


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