Aigo was where Ana Sortun first came to our attention. This restaurant at the Concord commuter rail station used to be the Different Drummer, which was so bad it doesn't even really qualify as a restaurant past or present, was an anomoly in the Boston suburbs. Instead of flavorless, dried out tuna salad sandwiches, they served Mediteranean cuisine with an Almond based soup, a variety of cous cous dishes, roast lamb, grilled chicken and the like, all cooked with flair and flavor. They even risked sanctions under the Federal law which prevents restaurants from serving a decent lunch in this country the way they do overseas. Needless to say, when Ms. Sortun left for Eight Holyoke the cuisine collapsed and the flavorless, dried out tuna salad sandwiches returned.