Fuller's at the Sheraton
UPDATE: Fuller's has
been closed for some time now. The 90s boom is over, and upmarket
restaurants have been closing or changing their focus. We miss Fuller's
and, in New York City, L'Espinasse.
Fuller's is a quiet, elegant restaurant in the lobby of the
Towers Hotel in downtown Seattle. The food is also quiet and elegant,
excellent preparation of great local ingredients of the Northwest,
a lot of fuss and flash.
This means a meal might start with grilled Washington State
a tarragon salad, or a romaine lettuce caesar salad with smoke clams
mussels. An alternate starter was crab cake with Dungeness crab from
nearby Olympic Peninsula. Being an elegant restaurant, where a coat and
tie are not out of place, Fuller's serves wonderful foie gras. This
from the Hudson Valley, but the garnishes are local - blackberries and
or blueberries with a green salad and a freshly baked brioche.
We love the seafood at Fuller's, especially the Copper River
from Alaska, in the late spring. They'll serve with barley and brocolli
rabe or with white beans, pancetta, spinach, mushrooms and romesco
The flavors and textures are balanced without a discordant note. They
to please and satisfy, not to impress.
We also love the meats. It is hard to get lamb where we live
we've come to Fuller's for the lamb. It is comfort food with truffled
potatoes and spinach. Every entree has a meat component, a starch
and a vegetable component. So, the venison is served with cranberry
swiss chard and an English pea puree. The Chilean sea bass is served on
a risotto with sizzled carrots.
As for the desserts, we haven't a clue. We are always so
our appetizer and entree that we've never bothered. The meal is already
an elegant whole. Whenever we crave a quiet, elegant meal, excellently
we come to Fuller's and will continue to do so.
Review: 24 January 2001