Meigas - 212 627 5800 - 350 Hudson Street, near King Street

One of the best things about Meigas is its variety. They serve Spanish food, but Spain is a big country, at least in its cuisine. There is salt cod with vegetables from the Atlantic, steamed octopus from the Mediteranean, roast rabbit from the mountains, roast prime rib with peppers and potatoes from the central plains and potato slices with garlic from the colonies. Everything is well prepared and well served by their professional and knowledgeable staff.

The kitchen can be imaginative, with dishes like sweetbreads in squid ink. The latter's dark flavor brings out the savory notes of the sweetbreads. They have delicious deep fried beef short rib croquets, which have nothing to do with chicken fried steak. We also liked the artichoke and tomato salad with its bright, slightly acid flavors, and their side dish of miniature grain rice, which was chewy and delicious.

They have a good wine list, including wines by the glass, and the staff does a good job of explaining and helping one choose wines, which is great for those unfamiliar with the wines of Spain.

We did not get to try dessert. It was a school night and we had to get everyone home to do their homework. We tried to get a take out dessert, but the chef could not package his famous dessert "foams" for travel. Instead, we stopped at the Magnolia Bakery, which was on our way home. Next time, we will plan more carefully, and we plan to return to Meigas soon.

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