Rialto is run by Jody Adams who used to run Michaela's in the Atheneum building, a space now occupied by Salamander and it is every bit as good in its new Charles Hotel location in Harvard Square. They serve rich, hearty Italian food with an emphasis on Tuscan specialities. The marinated roast duck, a Michaela's speciality, is to die for. At our last meal on a busy Saturday night we had the duck, the tuna and a Florentine steak with a delightful lemon flavor.

When they first opened the food and service were excellent but they had not yet found their true tone and Rialto is not Michaela's, but they have the same full flavors and Italian gusto. And, of course, the service was gracious, knowledgible, unobtrusive and effective.

Who knows how they do it in Cambridge, but this probably the best Italian restaurant in town.

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